The first hour of today went brilliantly. Fairly decent ice, bit of a nippy headwind, but nothing that was going to cause me any problems. Then I spotted it, shimmering on the horizon, just before I stopped for my first tea break. The mother of all pressure ridges.
'Ooer', I said to myself as I munched my energy bar and burned my tongue on my drink, 'Perhaps this is it! The gateway to the promised land - flat pans all the way to the Pole'.
As I got closer, I started to feel a bit scared. The ridge was monstrous: nowhere was it less than two stories high, it stretched as far as either horizon, it was essentially vertical, and it even had a little moat around it (thankfully frozen) just for good measure. It looked just like a frozen fortress, and I half-expected one of Philip Pullman's armoured polar bears to pop its head over the parapet as I approached.
I skied toward the lowest point I could spot, strapped my skis and poles to the sledge and attacked it with both hands, both feet and both knees. After a surreal vertical climb I wedged myself at the top and hauled the sledge up, hand-over-hand by its knotted trace (the rope that connects sledge to harness). And as I turned to face north, I was greeted with a troubling sight: another giant ridge, then beyond that an endless view of rubble ice so smashed up that it made anything I saw at the start of this expedition seem like child's play.
An interesting thought occurred as I scrambled on. It's quite possible that no one else has seen multi-year sea ice (ice that's thick enough to survive the summer) in this state before. The summer of 2007 saw the biggest Arctic melt ever recorded - more than half the pack ice disappeared completely, and if things continue at this rate, there won't be any multi-year ice left in a few years' time. There will come a point, equally, when it's impossible to reach the North Pole on foot. The consensus among the experts at Eureka was that the ice on the Canadian side this year was more fractured than they'd ever seen before. Right now, camped on a modestly-sized flat bit of ice, surrounded by towering ridges, that's not a very comforting thought. I feel a bit like a mouse curled up in a rusty car-crusher, hoping it won't creak and rumble into action tonight. Hopefully things will improve tomorrow, as I can't take many more days this tough.
On a more cheery note, I mentioned a competition for schools. Here it is: I want you to choose a name for my sledge (the poor thing doesn't have one at the moment). It's up to you whether it's male or female, but you have to explain why you've chosen the name you have, and the better the reason, the more likely you are to win. This is open to pupils anywhere in the world, and the closing date is April 10th, so you've got a week. Email your answer via the form on the Contact page, or you can leave it as a comment below. Depending on where in the world the winner is, I'll try to visit your school to give a free talk when I get back, and we'll work out some kind of fun prize as well.
Today is dedicated to Adam Scourfield - another incredibly talented photographer, and someone I'm so glad I brought up to Resolute Bay a part of the team. Cracking up laughing at some of Adam's one-liners was one of the things that kept me sane today - thanks buddy.
Comments
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By Moki Kokoris on 03rd April, 2008
Hello, Ben! AMAZING PHOTO! Glad you seem to have the protection of the Golden Compass armoured bears. There are none better as I’m sure you know. I typically keep one under my bed - just in case.
Walk on!
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By Anthony Goddard on 03rd April, 2008
ah man.. Crazy, crazy rubble is no good.
I recommend getting to the pole as quick as you can :)
That picture looks like some fortress out of the Lord of the Rings.. nice work on scaling it! Hopefully the armoured bears are busy on the Russian side this time of year..
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By Moki Kokoris on 03rd April, 2008
Actually, I should not have neglected commenting on the conditions. For quite some time now, I have been studying and analyzing the various effects that climate change is having on our planet, specifically the Arctic, I sadly have to agree with you that another year or maybe two, and the Arctic Ocean will not be negotiable in the way you are travelling it. It has become too volatile; so much so that the Russians setting up Borneo Ice Base are having to resort to shovels and elbow grease to construct the runways. Their machines are useless. This is an end of an era that you are not only witnessing but experiencing firsthand....
You are one of the last who will be able to take up the challenge of crossing the Arctic ice under human power alone. There’s a reality check for ya!
I don’t suppose you’ll accept entries for your sledge naming competition from us grown-ups, huh? I guess not, so I shall leave the privilege to the upcoming explorers who are much younger than I. I do, however, have just one technical question: Once you choose the winning name, how will you christen the sledge? On second thought, maybe we don’t want that kind of visual....
Keep the faith. If there’s anyone who knows how to handle seemingly insurmountable challenges, that’s YOU. Believe in yourself and in the perseverence within.
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By Rachel Hanley on 03rd April, 2008
Being a CS Lewis fan.... i think of the 100 year winter in the Lion, witch and wardrobe. Though its fiction, i bet the queen’s castle had a wall like that around it.. how could it not?
I work with teenagers.. i’ll have to bring the naming contest to their attention.
Anyhow, Best of luck to you for tomorrow. May you get beyond the wall and find… a castle?
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By Marc Tyler on 03rd April, 2008
Really hope these pressure ridges give way to some fast skiing. The climbing bit must be nerve-racking and knackering to say the least. Take care Ben and keep fighting. We’re all with you......
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By Cas on 03rd April, 2008
Well done for getting through such a hard day and still having time to write this and think about the competition.
Just to let you know that most children in the UK are now on holiday and won’t return to school for a few weeks...I assume this will result in less of them taking part int he comp...as word of mouth wont get around the schools easily.
Wishing you less hard days like this one and a few flat ones for a while
Cas
P.s I have a name for your sledge
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By Paul Bower on 03rd April, 2008
Wow Ben reading this in the morning makes my day seem very tame, what an inspiration!
I have my fingers crossed for you but it makes it more difficult to type.Paul
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By Tom Gurnee on 03rd April, 2008
Far out…
What a post today. Boy I can see the scene in a movie right now; walking up to the ridge, surveying it, commenting, “Ooer"… (what does that mean? Must be a Brit term). Scaling the ridge (reminds me of the same type of scene out of the movie Capricorn One) , then, yank, yank, yanking up the sledge in-between your legs, ice and snow chinking off as the sledge comes up, the view of the horizon and your sledge trail moving off into the distance down below… Far out.
Can I be play your role Ben? I’ll shave my head…
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By Chris Martin on 03rd April, 2008
Brilliant photo, your sledge looks like a boat!!
It sounds amazing out there. So close to the 50nm barrier. Fingers crossed for the promised land of flat ice and smooth skiing.
Chris -
By Oliver Corbett on 03rd April, 2008
Ben. Keep the faith. It looks horrendous, and I have huge admiration. Remember the story about the mouse eating the elephant, piece by piece. All best. Oliver
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By Simon Jones on 03rd April, 2008
I guess that the first people to trek west across America probably felt somewhat the same as you at the pressure ridge when after what must have been a grueling journey they came upon the rocky mountains.
So I have a quick question, and I guess that you probably can’t answer it but maybe someone else can… When you eventually get to the pole and the entire world is revolving beneath you (again!), do you stick a flag in the ground or something. I know the ice moves, but what does one to to mark the occasion of reaching such an incredible feat?
Keep going Ben!
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By Alison Lowndes on 03rd April, 2008
Its total genius what you’re doing, Ben. Not only do you get the gratification of being one of the last people to ski over ice (solo) to the Geo North Pole but you also raise a huge amount of awareness of the state of the earth in a magnificent dialogue with the world .. not to mention inspiring us all too.
Regular schools restart next Monday 7th April .. I’ve already passed the competition to the Heads of my children’s primary & secondary. Genius idea (I told them April 17th, hope that ok).
Bravo for kicking that ridges ass, keep that spirit, Ben. Yelling “Bring It on” always helps me when life’s throwing curve balls. Correct me if I’m wrong too, please, but won’t the ice pack be a little like a car windscreen, weaker on the edges and thicker and more solid in the middle, so less capable of being crushed into ridges by drift? Is this why you’re expecting flat ice as you get closer to the pole ?
Leave that one with you or any polar geeks reading ...
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By Alison Lowndes on 03rd April, 2008
P.S. In case you missed it, Ben, George Tricker (Hilary’s son), age 8, says you’re ... “the best polar explorer ever”. Along with all his school friends I’m inclined to agree.
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By Paul M. Watson on 03rd April, 2008
Reading His Dark Materials for the first time and strangely enough I’m at the bit where the worlds are connecting and melting the north. The armoured bears are having a tough time, looking for a new home.
Keep on going Ben!
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By Nikki on 03rd April, 2008
OY!! Give it hell, Ben!
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By Alex Bicknell on 04th April, 2008
Personally, I spent yesterday sulking in bed with flu. Your day puts mine a little to shame.
Here’s hoping once you’re ‘inside’ the fortress it gets a little easier - but I sense you didn’t set off on this for it to be easy?
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By Grubb Family on 04th April, 2008
Full of admiration for your determination Ben! Sadly our school cannot take part in your competition because we don’t begin until 14th April, however, we will continue to read about your days with interest and inspiration (whilst writing schemes of work and marking GCSE, A level music performances)! Not sure who has the more enviable task, you or us.
PS The boarding house including the Ben Saunders wing has just received an excellent report from Ofsted. -
By Nik on 04th April, 2008
Fantastic stuff!
It’s absolutely superb to be able to follow your journey through this website..
Sounds like the race is on now, as David Hempleman-Adams and his daughter Camilla left for the North Pole yesterday.. although a different route I think..
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By Alison Lowndes on 05th April, 2008
OK .. the mother in me is starting to worry a little. Am hoping its a tekkie glitch but Andy, if you’re reading this .. give us all an update please ??
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By Paul Bower on 05th April, 2008
Please let us know something the suspense is unbearable!
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By Alison Lowndes on 05th April, 2008
The fact there is still no update even from Andy (contacted him directly but no response) is starting to worry the hell out of me ... and I know others too are VERY nervous.
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By Alison Lowndes on 05th April, 2008
Ok .. found the update on the home page .. safe and well just gutted .. me too, Ben. Keep in touch x
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By James Dixon on 05th April, 2008
Ben
This is BITTERLY disappointing news. London partners of Ernst & Young were following your progress with keen interest, including one hospitalised due to a collision with a [pedal] bike. At least you did not have that problem to contend with…
So, see you around Putney rather sooner than might have been expected for a drink?
James
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By Paul Bower on 05th April, 2008
Ben
Well done for trying in the first place. Thank god you’re safe, lets hope you get back in one piece.
Paul -
By Elaine Eagleton on 05th April, 2008
Ben,
I am so very disappointed for you. To work so hard only for your equipment to let you down must be so frustrating. Knowing how resilient you are I am sure you will bounce back from this and will soon be planning your next adventure. I can’t wait to follow your journey in the Antarctic.
Keep your chin up. -
By RObb on 05th April, 2008
Wow, it’s sad to think that you’re the last person who could have this opportunity, at the same time, how inspiring to know that someone IS doing it!
keep up the hard work Ben, we are all living vicariously through you :)
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By Paul Bower on 05th April, 2008
Ben
Well done for trying, thank God you’re safe.Paul
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By Paul M. Watson on 05th April, 2008
Ben, you did yourself proud and brought it home for a lot of us. I hope you get another chance.
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By Alison Lowndes on 05th April, 2008
Final word .. I don’t need to worry about you anymore if they’re on their way to pick you up .. but wish I could say the same for civilisation in the northern hemisphere ????
My name is Alison, I’ve been addicted to Ben’s journal since the outset, tomorrow may well be my first day off the ice .....
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By Chris Martin on 05th April, 2008
Gutted for you buddy!
I have the utmost respect for you and completely understand what you’re going trough now. Glad you’re safe too. Hope you get another chance. My mornings just won’t be the same without your blog. Dare I say if at first you don’t succeed...? -
By Tom Gurnee on 05th April, 2008
Hmm. Always the optimist here…
Obviously down here in the south 40 we have no clue as to what the logistical headache of everything is up there. I’m sure the idea of getting a new pair of skis, re-supplying and turning the first try into a groundhog day has crossed a mind or two. Slightly different route on a “take two” try? Hmm…
I’m certain all of you have been bonking your heads against solid objects trying to come up w/ solutions. For that, and for everything, we all applaud you standing on our tippie toes.
I shall await Ben’s and the team’s next post before signing off for now. Sometimes, you never know…
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By Michaela on 05th April, 2008
BUMMER!
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By Oliver Corbett on 05th April, 2008
Ben - awesome effort. You’re still standing, we are still behind you and I walked past your flat tonight and all is fine. BRILLIANT. Ol
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By Hilary Tricker on 05th April, 2008
Please keep writing to us - we will still be interested in your daily updates and wonderful story telling with or without the ice!
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By James Westlake on 05th April, 2008
Ben - I can’t imagine your frustration and disappointment. We’re all so sorry for you. We all feel your pain. Stay strong, stay patient and bounce back. At the end of the day it’s just a matter of getting up one more time than you’re knocked down. Good luck, and we look forward to sharing the next stage of your journey!
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By Cas on 05th April, 2008
Gutted........I was sure the only thing that could fail you was a technical failure. Un fortunately it happened
I also know that you will give it another go…
Really sorry
Cas
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By Simon Jones on 05th April, 2008
I must admit, when I logged on to the site at just before 5am UK time yesterday and didn’t see an update, I was wondering what might have happened. This is a set back, but it’s only a set back right.
You’re still a hero and a true inspiration Ben!
We’ll all be here for the next adventure.
All the best mate.
Simon
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By Scott Phillips on 05th April, 2008
Ben- Wow,wow,and WOW! And thank you.
Can’t wait for South.Scott
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By Marc Tyler on 05th April, 2008
With regard to the hugely disappointing news, all i can say is ‘you live to fight another day’. Gutted for you, truly gutted. However, perhaps, despite an overwhelming sense of disappointment, you can feel a certain degree of optimism for your future expedition knowing that physically you are totally ‘up for it’ and that equipment failure was the reason for halting. I wonder what, if any, contingencies can be drawn up before your next expedition. Indestructable ski bindings please reveal yourself - Mr Saunders needs you ! We’re proud of you Ben ! ‘Chal-dwe-gil-paray !’ - ‘Good luck !’ as we say in Korea.
‘Endure what can’t be mended.’
Isaac Watts.
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By Pete Giblin on 05th April, 2008
Oh, Ben. Consider yourself hugged by an awful lot of people. It really has been inspiring to follow your journey. I’m sure you’re reflecting on what you’ve achieved and what the future holds. As you well know, part of the magic of life is its unpredictability. Nothing to do but be philosophical. Looking forward to a drink when you get back. Take care.
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By NigelW on 05th April, 2008
Ben! Well done - both for getting as far and fast as you did, and for having the sense to abort promptly when confronted with the gear failure.
The state of the ice as you work your way further out must be horrendous.
http://ice-glaces.ec.gc.ca/content_contenu/SIE/Beaufort/ANIM-BE2007.gif
Looking at the way it is moving and breaking up in the Beaufort sea - and I’m sure its doing something similar north of you - my feeling is that regardless of your explorer’s genes, your better off sitting by the fire this year! Nicer for your mum too!
Looking forward to your next expedition! -
By Anthony Goddard on 05th April, 2008
Ben, as always your journey has filled the lives of many with adventure and excitement. It has rekindled a too long forgotten sense of true exploration, in both the geographic sense and the human sense, and it is this sense of exploration that pushes us all to strive towards setting new benchmarks in everything we do.
I am sorry to hear the news about the ski’s but I am definitely looking forward to following the progress on SOUTH and I’m as thankful as everyone else who’s been intently watching your progress for the inspiration (and at times entertainment!!) you have given us.
Regardless of the duration, your journey showed us the meaning of determination and courage and I’m glad to stand shoulder to shoulder with the others here in applauding your remarkable effort.
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By Irene on 05th April, 2008
Ben, I’m so sorry. Everything happens for a reason. This means another opportunity to be out on the ice is just around the corner. Tremendous achievement nevertheless!
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By Nikki on 05th April, 2008
Hey Ben,
You’re so right. The real failure is to not embark upon our dreams in the first place and I know that you’ve inspired people all over the globe. I’m sorry to hear that it’s ended. It must feel like the day after the prom...all that excitement and anticipation coming to a conclusion. But we all know it’s not over for you...onward to the South! I know I, and others who have followed you since your last North expedition, are also looking forward to your South expedition.
Thank you for allowing us to live this dream with you. Stay safe, and I look forward to your next update.
Nikki :-)
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By Cas on 05th April, 2008
Sorry about bad english in my last post , but I was both disappointed for Ben and a bit drunk from my birthday party.
Ben to be honest my first reaction was “ thank god he is safe and nothing has happened to me “
On the another note...and for give me if its naive...I have compared your speed to many other expeditions and it was very very fast....Why can you not get a new set of skies and attempt an “ aided “ fastest record?
Cas
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By Paul Bower on 05th April, 2008
Hi Ben
Your room in North Yorks is here if you need it, just let me know.
regards Paul -
By Will on 05th April, 2008
Ben, so gutted for you.
However, you dont strike me as the kind of person who let’s things knock him down for long.
You are a true inspiration and hero. You’re so right, the only failure is never to try.
Look forward to your next adventure.
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By Alex Vero on 06th April, 2008
Ben
Really sorry to hear about the problems that you have faced with your equipment. I know in some small way how you must feel after so much hard work and planning but what I do know for sure is that you will bounce back from this.
See you soon
Alex
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By bethan griffiths on 08th April, 2008
i am bethan griffiths, im 13 years old and i go to dyffryn comprehensive school in port talbot. you may know my science teacher mrs george. she was the one who told me about this competion. she is always telling amazing stories about your arctic adventures.
i have come up with a name for your sledge : mynydd eira = snow mountain
mynydd eira is welsh for snowy mountain.
i hope you pick my name for your sledge and i hope you can come in and share your adventures one more time !
Day’s Statistics ~ 03/04/08
| Position | N83.55.55 W074.10.49 |
|---|---|
| Daily Distance | 5.93nm |
| Total Distance | 49.6nm |
| Distance To Go | 364.5nm |
| Traveling Time | 9.5hrs |
| Conditions | Crazy, crazy rubble. Moderate wind from NE. Clear. |
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This journal is coming to you from the high Arctic, where Ben Saunders is attempting to set a new world speed record from Ward Hunt Island to the Geographic North Pole. The current record was set in 2005 by a guided team using dog sleds and numerous re-supplies in a time of 36 days 22 hours. Ben’s expedition will be solo and unsupported and on foot. Read more about the expedition and Ben